Author

Author Type

Graduate Student

Date of Award

2018

Document Type

Thesis

Publication Status

Version of Record

Submission Date

October 2026

Thesis/Dissertation Advisor [Chair]

Seiffert, Betsy

Abstract

The influence of monochromatic waves interacting with a submerged bar structure is investigated through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Wave profiles for a range of non-breaking, spilling, and plunging waves were analyzed for three offshore water depths through the interpretation of wave gauge and video imagery data. Evolution of propagating waves was reflected in data which showed increased amplitudes due to shoaling with subsequent breaking, transfer of single frequency spectrum from lower to higher frequency harmonics, and dissipation of energy after breaking onset. Comparisons of collected experimental data with previous theory developed by Yao et al (2013), Smith & Kraus (1991), Galvin (1968) for wave classification showed to be relatively accurate for both relative submergence and surf similarity methods. Wave breaking onset identified by instability in the wave crests allowed for measurements of breaking wave height and depth at breaking. Theory by Johnson (2006) and Goda (1974) compared to experimental data showed little agreement for predicting breaking wave heights.

Extent

81 p.

Comments

Includes bibliography.|Thesis (M.S.)--Florida Atlantic University, 2018.|FAU Electronic Theses and Dissertations Collection|Includes bibliography.

Identifier

FA00013096

Format

pdf

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